IMG_0398 The Evil Mad Science Diavolino is my official recommendation as the Arduino clone to use with the LoL Shield. It’s cheap, so you can dedicate one to a LoL Shield with minimal cost. With it you also have the option of leaving out parts when you put it together, specifically the LED for pin 13. Doing so keeps the display from “ghosting”. The profile is also quite low, so it’s easy to turn into a belt buckle. There is also no USB port to short the LoL Shield out with.

Assembling the Diavolino for the LoL Shield:

IMG_0396 I get the kit with headers and battery pack. It also comes with a really nice card with a good photo of the assembled board.

IMG_0397 I suggest taking out the 1k resistor and LED. Since the LoL Shield uses charlieplexing, it requires specific electrical paths to light up the individual LEDs. By having an LED go from pin 13 to ground, it creates a path to ground for the 11 LEDs that sink current into pin 13. That causes those LEDs to light up dimly, but noticeably. The easiest way to fix this, is to just not put the LED in, as it doesn’t change any other functionality with the Arduino.

IMG_0398 Go ahead and assemble the Diavolino as instructed, but leave off the headers. Yours should look something like this now.

IMG_0399 The easiest way to get perfectly straight headers is to go ahead and smash them together with the male headers on the LoL Shield. This will match it up for both boards at the same time. I usually place the male headers into the LoL Shield first, as they hold in their holes a little better.

IMG_0401 Now sandwich the two boards together.

IMG_0402 You can then solder all the headers on the Diavolino, then flip it over and solder all of them on the LoL Shield.

IMG_0403 The headers are so straight it’s pretty.

IMG_0404 I like to hot glue the battery pack to the back of the Diavolino. If you want to do this, then feed the wires through their appropriate stress-relief hole. Make sure that the switch on the battery pack is pointed down, and that you have a little bit of slack in the wires to slide the battery compartment open.

IMG_0405 Fold the wires over and cut just past the pads to remove the excess wire.

IMG_0406 You should have much shorter wires now. You’ll want to strip about a centimeter off of them and tin the tips of each wire, as tinning will make it much easier to solder to the PCB.

IMG_0407 Once they are soldered into place, you can then feed the extra wire back down towards the battery holder. Looks nice and clean.

IMG_0408 I then use a good bit of hot glue. This turned out to be too little glue, so cover the case well.

IMG_0410 When it’s all together, there is still plenty of room to get access to the batteries.

IMG_0411 My favorite part is how much room there is in the middle! From here, you can easily turn this into a belt buckle.

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